How do you Feel About Access to the Valles Caldera?

At Caldera Action we want to know what you think about access to your Valles Caldera National Preserve. Are you happy with your ability to visit the Preserve? We want to hear from you.

For example, how do you feel about the main gate being open only for business hours, 8 to 5? Should the gate be open all the time? Should it open at dawn and close at dusk?

How do you feel about restrictions on driving past the Visitor Center? Right now, the managers only allow 35 cars per day to pass into the Preserve. Should this number be higher, lower? Should there be no restriction at all?

Half of the year, managers close the roads beyond the Cabin District to the public for no apparent reason. While we agree that muddy roads should be rested, we wonder why the road is closed if snow or mud is not an issue. What do you think? Should the road be open to the public if it is passable?

Right now, only hunters can camp in the Preserve. Does this seem right? Do you want to camp in the Preserve?

Should there be fences along Highway 4 since there are no cattle in the Valle Grande? Do the fences make you feel unwelcome?

Please write us with your thoughts at:  administration@caldera-action.org

A Flurry of FOIAs

Caldera Action has been seeking information from federal agencies this week through the Freedom of Information Act.

We have been concerned that endangered species management at the Valles Caldera may not be fully up to date, so we asked for information on species management from both the National Park Service and the US Fish and Wildlife Service. Unfortunately, it takes these agencies a long time to respond.

We also asked Bandelier National Monument to reveal the details of their new co-management agreement with Santa Clara Pueblo since the public was unaware of this agreement until after it was signed by the NPS and the Pueblo. We feel the public needs to understand changes in management of our public lands.

We have also asked the US Forest Service to give us information on range conditions north of the Valles Caldera, and on their enforcement of cattle trespass regulations.

We do this work for the public in the interest of transparency and of nudging agencies to follow laws and regulations. We appreciate help from our coalition partners including the Western Watersheds Project.

27 thoughts on “How do you Feel About Access to the Valles Caldera?

  1. Thank you for bringing these matters further into the light. The fact that this has been “public land” for over 20 years and we’re having this conversation, is absolutely ridiculous. It is a failure, but I do know that the NPS is working on it. Are they working hard enough? It doesn’t look like it. Regarding the specific issues you mention:

    Main Gate: This is a dark sky certified piece of PUBLIC LAND. It should always be open. The quality of the sky is a fundamental resource identified in the Foundation Document. You can’t enjoy the sunset. NPS should have 2 rangers on staff for evening patrols. Look at other NPS sites and how they manage this. They’re not reinventing the wheel here, there are hundreds of NPS units. I can see access closed off further in, unless you have a permit, but at least allow access to the La Jara area. During summer, there are many hours of daylight where the gate is blocked off with dozens of vehicles parked at the fence line. Bikers and hikers struggling to crawl under or through the barbed wire.

    35-Car Limit: This is arbitrary. There is no existing study behind it. I am for limiting cars past the horse barn, but that’s it. Raise the number. It’s 189,000 acres for 35 cars? That’s 5,400 acres per vehicle. Unacceptable.

    Road Closures: Adjust daily. So many times, the weather and road conditions are wonderful, but access is closed. How can you do this with a straight face?

    Camping: One user group should not have elite access. Regardless of the rules, treat everyone equally. Ideally permits would be available for the public to use LNT principles and use non-motorized travel to camp in approved areas.

    Fences: In the cases where cattle are ranging on adjacent land, sure, they’re fine, but along the front of Valle Grande, no. In ALL cases, accessible walk-throughs should be available on ALL main areas and popular access points. Look at Sulphur Canyon, you must crawl. Look at San Antonio Creek from the East. Look at Hidden Valley. After 5 years of NPS, there has been little to no improvement.

    Last thing. You can’t have your dog in your car when you’re driving to the Cabins? I get not taking your dog out, but if you leave it in the car it should be fine.

    1. A big part of the problem is having upper level management with no previous land management experience and no NPS experience. Thus the restrictions imposed by the Trust have stayed and the NPS Regional Office has failed to correct the errors by local managers.

  2. We live in Jemez Springs and thoroughly enjoy access to the Valles Caldera. We have covered a large portion of the Preserve either hiking, mountain bike riding, snowshoeing, driving or a combination. We have also been fishing and hunting in the Preserve. We enjoy access by the main gate, Redondo Meadow, or Sulphur Canyon. One of the main benefits we enjoy is that it is never crowded in the areas we wander since we go far and wide. I like trails and maps, so that is something I would like to see attention continue to be given. During longer hikes/bike rides, there have been times we were stressed to be back to the Visitor’s Center in time. It would be nice if the gate allowed for departure after hours, but not allowing anyone else in or expanded summer hours. For out-of-towners, I wouldn’t be opposed to back country backpacking or camping on a very limited basis. Possibly camping with only 8-10 campspots and backpacking with a limited # of advance permits. Educational programs are also appealing including Ranger talks our tours. Also for night sky viewing, it would be good to have evening access on specific dates. Lastly, we would be willing to help on trail maintenance with organized volunteer work crews. Feel free to reach out for any questions or additional feedback.

  3. Public Land is used for many reasons, it is why many people live in this area. The Caldera is far from a pristine landscape yet there are ways to make it feel inclusive yet not overcrowded and allow space for wildlife. Managing the Caldera for shared use is important. New policies from NPS regulating some activates make it feel less inclusive. Why is equestrian use regulated and mountain biking isn’t? Why is there a need to regulate equestrian use? The equestrian permit needs to be dropped or a mountain biking biking permit needs to be instituted. I find it strange you can only trot on the preserve yet there is no speed restriction for mountain biking or number of mountain bikers? Allow backcountry camping in a similar fashion as hunters are permitted to camp (during hunting season). Establish a small campground near in the front country.

  4. As the VC is a natural preserve, limiting access should continue. I’ve never been turned away on a weekday due to the 35 car limit in the backcountry, so I see no need to increase it, except perhaps on weekends. But limiting access to May to October is wrong. If the road is passable, then we should be allowed to enter the backcountry. I do not favor paving or building more roads. The main goal should be to return the VC to its natural state while allowing limited access to hikers, bikers and skiers.

    A campground just south of the cabin district would be good, but I have misgivings about allowing camping anywhere in the VC because of the risk of wildfires started by campers. Witness all the unattended fires found in other parts of Santa Fe National Forest in summer, despite restrictions.

    Get rid of the cows and grazing. Remove the stock pens in the valley east of Cerro Medio.

  5. Hi! And thank you for asking for the public’s input on the future of our beloved caldera.
    First, I think the concept of “preserve” should be the guiding word. We have been turned away for access to the far reaches of the park when we arrived after all the permits were distributed, which was perfectly understandable and wise. Limiting backcountry access is a smart thing to do to preserve the nature of the caldera. There are plenty of other places to go to entertain one’s self: Coyote Call, Valles Grande, Las Conchas, to name a few.
    Secondly, I don’t think the public should be allowed in the main area of the park unless ranger(s) are present. Whether that’s dawn to dusk or 8:00 to 5:00 would be the decision of the NPS. Perhaps coordinating open hours should be in sync with Bandelier’s hours.
    In my perfect dreams, however, I would LOVE to see a backpacking adventure trail that circumnavigates the caldera, much like the Wonderland Trail at Mt. Rainier, or the Three Sisters Loop Trail in Oregon. The caldera is perfectly suited for this, with ready access to filterable water and many ways to cut your adventure short if you do not want to complete the whole loop. I realize that this idea is lofty, but I would love to think that someday my grandson could do this.
    Thank you for seeking the public’s input on the future of the caldera. I hope its future is bright and wild.

    1. Thanks for your ideas. We think it is reasonable for the Preserve to be open dawn to dusk so that people have time to complete their trips into the back areas of the Preserve. If you are 45 minutes away from the gate where you are fishing or hiking, then you have to cut your visit short in order to be at the gate at 5pm. People also should be able to enjoy a full day in the Preserve, including watching the sunset, without being told to leave earlier for apparently arbitrary reasons.

      Congress directed the NPS to study the possibility of a Rim Trail around the Caldera. Some work has been done on this but it will need volunteers and public pressure to get it done. There are a few challenges with the idea but overall we are confident that with interagency cooperation we will see a Rim Trial in the next few years.

  6. While I would love to be able to camp in the Caldera, I’m fearful that such a beautiful and well preserved forest will be destroyed by those ignorant of LNT practices. A couple years ago I camped along a forest service road near Fenton Lake on Father’s Day Weekend, and had one of the worst camping experiences of my life. UTV’s zooming up and down the road all night long and people target shooting during the day made for a nerve-racking weekend.

    Hunters pay for a license as well as a tag to be able to hunt on public land, not to mention the hunter safety courses they take. While not all hunters exhibit good LNT principles, they care for the land with more appreciation than a lot of other weekend warriors.

    I agree with most of the Caldera entrance policies, except the closure of roads based on the calendar date instead of actual conditions.

  7. It is public land. It is not a private playground for government bureaucrats, Pueblo ceremonies, environmentalists, or any other special interest.

  8. Leave the access point the existing one. And leave the natural beauty alone. Stop trying to improve nature. More access more trash, people are pigs and we see that all through our mountains.

  9. Howdy,

    I live on the western rim of the preserve near La Cueva. The Caldera has come a long way since the trust days in terms of access. The preserve does an amazing job of forest management, wildlife management and access these days. I agree with the idea of expansion in regards to back country camping access. A permit system would be beneficial to limit access.

    In regards to allowing camping for hunters, one thing to note is that this is born out of necessity. Virtually all of the other campgrounds in the surrounding Forest Lands start to close when most hunting seasons start. A better use of money, would be for more campgrounds in the surrounding Forest Service lands. The Jemez has a huge lack of developed, and undeveloped campsites, for the major usage that the Forest sees.

    In addition, fencing is needed around the park boundaries. It may feel unwelcoming to some, but it is necessary. They are many ranchers whose homesteads surround the preserve and the fencing serves to keep the cattle out. This is necessary to maintain the viable elk habitat in the preserve. I advise you all to reconsider statements like the following:

    “Should there be fences along Highway 4 since there are no cattle in the Valle Grande? Do the fences make you feel unwelcome?”

    It shows a lack of understanding of land management and of recognizing the landowners that surround the park. Proper land management should not rely on how people feel about an issue but rather the science and tried and true management practices.

  10. I am a resident of NM and have visited Valles Caldera many times over the past 30 yrs, both as a hiker and a horseback rider.
    I would like to see the VC accessible 24/7, or at least from dawn to dusk. I’d also like to see Banco Bonito opened back up again as an accessible trailhead and camping area, especially for equestrians. About 6 yrs ago, equestrians were allowed to stage for rides out of the old Bull Barn, and I would like to have that as an option again, possibly also fir equestrian camping as well.
    If there are any limits on the number of vehicles allowed past the visitor center, I would like that number to be set at a higher number, perhaps 50-100, due to the vastness of the reserve and the ability for people to easily spread out.
    I also think that all the additional fees for permits and requirements to access the VC should be done away with, including the locked gates requiring codes to unlock. They make it difficult and restrictive to visit the VC without a lot of prior planning and approvals.
    Also, the trail system in the Banco Bonito area needs to be better managed with signage and updated maps. Some of the designated trails are blocked off with notices about restoration, but the map does not list that, recreational users have to do a lot of ou and back which adds unnecessary mileage to their originally planned route.
    A fence around the preserve does not bother me as long as there is easy access to VC trailheads and camping areas.

  11. 1. If one category of recreationists is allowed to camp in the Valle (hunters), then others should be allowed too–but only non-motorized muscle-powered recreationists like backpackers & bikepackers. Continue to prohibit vehicle campers as (especially in New Mexico) we have seen that they sometimes (often?) trash campgrounds & treat the environment disrespectfully.
    2. Keep vehicle access limited like it is now, so that the roads do not get congested & motorized intrusion remains limited.
    3. Do not ‘improve’ or pave the roads into the Valle, which only leads to more & faster vehicle traffic.
    4. Phase out cattle grazing as an ‘historic’ use in the Valle & bring back more & larger mammals, possibly bison.
    5. The Valles Caldera Preserve is a unique entity in the national park/forest system. KEEP IT LIKE IT WAS!

  12. This won’t be popular but I hope they maintain the restrictions they currently have. The caldera is special BECAUSE of the limited access. It is a world renowned elk calving area and glorious refuge for some of Northern New Mexico’s iconic wildlife species and a few of our most fragile T&E species. Numerous studies show the negative impacts human intrusion has on wildlife, especially those in or on motorized vehicles as well as bicycles. Dogs are also a big form of harassment. The caldera sits within a 1.6 million acre forest that already allows all those other uses, why must humans want every square inch to do as they please! Please keep access limited and keep the caldera special.

  13. Riding in the Valles Caldera is on my bucket list. We ride in the San Pedro Wilderness a lot every summer, but not being familiar with all the protocols for the VC, we just never include it in our plans. Making appointments, limits, times and such just takes some of the fun out of it. It would be nicer if it were more accessible at any time. It’s too far to travel without being able to spend the night after riding all day. I think they should not assume problems before they happen. Try it. If there are problems, then make adjustments.

    1. I presume you mean riding horses since you are talking about the San Pedro Parks wilderness where mechanized travel is prohibited. Many people have spoken to the need for less regulation on horse travel in the VCNP. Thank you for your thoughts.

  14. 1. Dawn to dusk
    2. More hike/bike camping
    3. 35 people a day back to be expanded a little. Maybe split the day?
    4. Limited Access for hiking, skiing from hwy 4 thru small gates that would limit size, like no ATVs.
    5. Hunters should not be the only ones in to camp.
    In a nutshell, a tad more open, but still limited

  15. I enjoy bike packing thru the Valles Caldera. I would like to be able to camp inside. I like a restriction on the number of daily vehicles allowed to drive into the area. I don’t understand or agree with the policy that only hunters can camp inside. I would not want car camping allowed since this typically results in more trash being left behind. I think back packers and bike packers tend to be more respectful and take out all they bring in. I would like to see access gates open 24/7 for foot or bike travel and keep vehicle access restricted to visitor center open hours.

  16. There are very few wild and open spaces left. Since the very nature of a “preserve” is to preserve wild and open spaces, I am fine with current visitation restrictions. I would be fine with even stricter protections. Humans do disrupt and stress wildlife with their presence and I think visitation should be limited to 20 vehicles daily. I do think if hunters are allowed to camp then others should be allowed to camp as well. Give out a limited number of camping permits every season and require campers to watch a camping etiquette video ahead of time — as back country campers in Denali are required to do — to make sure people know how to behave around wildlife, be safe in the backcountry, and leave no trace. Our wildlife and wild places have value unto themselves and are worth saving.

    1. I appreciate your view very much. We have an assumption that public land means maximum public use at all times. We need to give the native species some peace, some refuge from constant human impacts. This is a good place to do that. However, the park’s planning process is where the rubber meets the road in terms of regulating use. I urge everyone to contact the Valles Caldera managers and let your views be known, any time. Don’t just speak up at open comment periods.

  17. I love that cars are limited and always enjoy hiking there. I would love to rent one of the cabins in the back country or camp so I could see it at sunset, night and sunrise. I live in Los Alamos so I am there every couple of weeks.

  18. Camping options please–in very limited areas for “car camping” or campground style camping.
    Yes to backpacking and backcountry camping options. Permitted is fine.
    Keep the limit on automobiles, with perhaps some slots for “drop in” and some that can be reserved ahead of time for families who live far from the Caldera and may not make it by 9:00 am to get a permit.
    Roads closed due to mud or snow or animal mating/migration, but not randomly.
    No new roads. Maybe even fewer.
    Yes to bicycles. Yes to pedestrians.
    Rehabilitate old logging roads where possible.

  19. Hi, I am a resident of the Jemez mountains, and I live about 10 miles from the Valles Caldera in the Sierra Los Pinos neighborhood off of FR10. Except for an initial visit and one bike packing trip through the Valle Grande toward Abiqueue, I do not visit the Caldera much since I neither hunt nor fish. I would love to be able to camp in the Valles Caldera while bike-packing through it. I recommend, you designate camping areas or allow wilderness style camping for mountain bikers and hikers. I DO NOT recommend you allow car camping as that invites a lot of trash as evidenced by the trashed state of so many nearby camp grounds in the Jemez Mountains. But, bike-packers and hikers tend to be cleaner and more respectful–you can see this by observing how clean the San Pedros wilderness area is despite it allowing hikers to camp anywhere. I would also like to see it open 24/7. I DO recommend a snow fence along highway 4 as the wind blows snow across the hwy and it’s very dangerous to drive through for us residents on our way to Los Alamos, NM for work. But, I would add access through the snow gates at each parking area along the highway for visitors, cross country skiing and snow-shoeing. It would be great too if you can add a single-track bike loop that traversed the Valles Caldera–something around 15-45 miles would be a good day trip. Please don’t make any gravel road type bike trail as that is not fun. Try to make it wind near some streams so we can get and filter water as we ride. A designated loop would also encourage camping along that route making it easier to patrol for safety and cleanliness.

    1. Thank you. We will forward your comments to the National Park Service. Since we are an advocacy and education organization we are collecting input to get a sense of public sentiment. Thank you for your comment.

  20. I think more people should be allowed access, all day every day and camping should be permitted. This is a beautiful park that people should be allowed to enjoy year around and more thoroughly!

  21. I think the caldera should be more inclusive to non hunters in the back country and the back country should be accessible year round road conditions permitting. I like that the caldera is restricted to the number of people in some ways in order to keep it quieter and cleaner but I feel like it should be open later in the evening and earlier in the morning, perhaps dawn to dusk or even a little past dusk to allow better wildlife viewing. For the most part I like the way the caldera is managed with the exception of only being able to access the back country for such a limited number of hours in the day and only a limited number of months in the year.

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